A rich, slow-simmered Italian meat sauce (ragù) served over spaghetti. The long simmer is what builds deep flavor, so don't rush it.
by Culicious Kitchen
Finely chop the onion, carrots, and celery into small, even pieces (about the size of a pea). Even pieces cook at the same rate and melt into the sauce. Mince the garlic separately and set it aside.
Place a large heavy pot or Dutch oven over medium heat and add the olive oil. Give it about 1 minute to warm up — a drop of water should sizzle.
Add the onion, carrot, and celery. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and the onion looks translucent (not browned), about 8 minutes. This vegetable base is called a soffritto.
Stir in the minced garlic and cook for 1 minute, just until fragrant. Don't let it brown or it turns bitter.
Turn the heat to medium-high and add the ground beef. Break it up with a wooden spoon and cook until no pink remains and some bits turn golden brown, about 8 minutes. Browning = flavor.
Push the meat to one side, add the tomato paste to the empty space, and let it sizzle for 1 minute, then stir it through everything. Cooking the paste deepens its color and sweetness.
Pour in the milk and stir. Let it bubble and reduce until almost evaporated, about 5 minutes. Milk first (before the acidic tomato) keeps the meat tender — a traditional trick.
Pour in the red wine (if using) and let it bubble for 3-4 minutes to cook off the raw alcohol smell.
Add the crushed tomatoes, oregano, bay leaves, 1 teaspoon salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Stir well and bring to a gentle simmer (small lazy bubbles).
Lower the heat so it barely simmers, partially cover, and cook for at least 1 hour (up to 2), stirring every 15-20 minutes. It's ready when it's thick and glossy and the oil starts to separate at the edges.
About 15 minutes before serving, bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add a big pinch of salt (it should taste like the sea) and the spaghetti.
Cook the spaghetti according to the package time for 'al dente' (tender but with a slight bite), usually 9-11 minutes. Stir in the first minute so it doesn't stick.
Scoop out 1 cup of pasta water, then drain the pasta. Remove the bay leaves from the sauce and taste — add more salt or pepper if needed.
Add the drained spaghetti to the sauce (or plate the pasta and spoon sauce on top). Toss together, adding a splash of pasta water if it looks dry. Serve hot with plenty of grated Parmesan.
Save it to scale servings, run step timers, and send the ingredients to a shopping list that skips what is already in your pantry.